FROM SALICE TERME YOU CAN DISCOVER THE PROVINCE OF PAVIA
Salice Terme is, without doubt, the most famous and important tourist spot in that part of the province of Pavia located between Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna and better known as the Oltrepò Pavese.
This section of Lombardy to the south of the river Po is universally known for its quality wines (D.o.c.), fruit and vegetables, for the famous Varzi salami (D.o.c. - D.o.p.) and for the cheeses of the upper Staffora valley, which are a source of income for the many, flourishing small farms, some of which are also starting to provide farm holidays, with considerable success.
Starting from Salice Terme we would like to suggest a number of itineraries, that can be completed in half a day, to discover both the hills and mountains of Oltrepò Pavese, and the whole of the province of Pavia, a land rich in history and one containing innumerable artistic and architectural treasures and beautiful landscapes; a land of intense flavours and a great tradition of good food and wine.
PROPOSED ITINERARIES
Starting from Salice Terme, on foot (2 Km), it is possible to reach the adjacent commune of Rivanazzano, which also has spa traditions. Visit the renovated pentagonal tower dating from 1200, the only remains of the old walls that circled the village until the mid seventeenth century, and the Brugnatelli park. Again on foot, passing through a thick wood, it is possible to reach the hamlet of Nazzano, whose Castle (11th century), with its manor-house and church, overlooks Salice Terme. The splendid Italian gardens of the villa (18th century) are enchanting and extremely well-kept, truly an “exclusive balcony” overlooking most of the Staffora valley and the Po valley.
Continuing up the valley, in the direction of Varzi, after 4 km you reach Godiasco, a commune of ancient origins. The mediaeval town centre is well worth a visit, with the remains of the old Castle in which, according to a reliable historic reconstruction, Giuliano De Medici, later Pope Leo X, once took refuge. Also worthy of note is the gateway of Palazzo Malaspina (1594) and Palazzo Pedemonti, with its austere eighteenth century structure.
Also along the road to Varzi, perched on a promontory, lies the tiny hamlet of Cecima. Take a look at the Parish church of San Marino Vescovo, with its beautiful facade and magnificent terracotta rose window dating from the year 1000. From Cecima you reach San Ponzo Semola, where the remains of old catacombs can be found, bearing witness to the persecution of early Christians. Just a few kilometres away, on the opposite side of the same valley, in the commune of Ponte Nizza, stands the Abbey of Sant’Alberto di Butrio, dating from the 11th century, which houses frescos of considerable historic and artistic value. The scenery is enchanting: surrounded by untouched nature, the Abbey represents a place of peace, serenity and self-reconciliation. After this pause in perfect harmony with nature, the next stopping point is the Castle of Oramala (11th century), in the commune of Val di Nizza, before moving on towards Valverde to admire the ruins of the “Green Castle”.
Returning to the Penice highway and continuing southwards, you pass through Bagnaria, an attractive agricultural village, likewise of mediaeval origin, which grows excellent apples and cherries. This brings us to Varzi, capital of the mountain Oltrepò area. Famed for its delicious sausages, principal among which is the typical “Varzi Salami” which bears the “D.o.p” and “D.o.c.” marks.
Worth visiting: the Malaspina tower, the mediaeval town centre, the old shops now returned to their past splendour, the churches of the Rossi and the Bianchi, the Sottana and Soprana towers, once part of the old town walls, the parish church of San Germano (13th century), the church of the Capuchins with the monument to St. Francis.
Approximately 6 Km from Varzi, on the borders with Piedmont, at Celle, stands the Temple of the Brotherhood of Peoples, an original church built using war relics from battlefields throughout the world.
From Varzi it is possible to reach other interesting places in the Po Apennine range: Menconico, home of truffles, mushrooms and “nisso cheese” (cheese that walks), Monte Penice (1,460 m. a.s.l.) on which stands the Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin, Pian del Poggio (1,400 m.), Cegni, famous for the white carneval, celebrated on August 16th of each year, Pian dell'Armà (1,700 m.), Mount Chiappo (1,699 m.), Brallo di Pregola, all well-known tourist spots both in winter and summer, Romagnese , with the Pietra Corva Alpine Garden in which a number of precious plants from various parts of the world can be seen, Zavattarello, with the imposing Dal Verme Castle.
Another itinerary, starting from Salice Terme, goes from Godiasco along the Ardivestra Valley, which carries the stream of the same name. Along this route you can see the thousand-year-old Pieve di San Zaccaria, a beautiful example of Romanesque art whose construction dates back to around the year one thousand, and the castle of Montesegale, now a private residence, which is perfectly preserved and an excellent example of Malaspina-style mediaeval architecture.
Continuing upwards you pass through the commune of Fortunago and reach the Castle of Stefanago (15th century), then touch the centres of Bororatto Mormorolo, Borgo Priolo and Montalto Pavese, where there is a beautiful castle. An area of extreme natural beauty, with good tourist facilities, but predominantly agricultural and dedicated to vine growing. Continuing northwards you reach Casteggio, a large agricultural and industrial centre, home of the most famous and important annual wine and grape-producing show in the Oltrepò area. We suggest a visit to the churches of Sacro Cuore and San Pietro Apostolo, to the Carthusian monastery at Cantù, the home of an important archaeological museum, and to the remains of the Fountain of Hannibal.
Equally interesting is a trip along the Versa Valley, starting from Broni o Stradella (the latter town is world-famous for its production of harmoniums) to discover the most prestigious wine-producing zone in the Oltrepò area.
Before reaching Santa Maria della Versa, capital of Oltrepò Pavese spumante, it is worthwhile to stop briefly at Canneto Pavese, Montù Beccaria, Montescano to visit some of the typical farms and, naturally, their wine cellars!
After stopping at Santa Maria della Versa, you reach Montecalvo Versiggia, and then proceed to Rocca de Giorgi, to see the castle (11th century), to Golferenzo, to Volpara for a visit to the temple of “moscato” (a typical dessert wine), passing through the lands around Ruino and Canevino.
In the itineraries we propose, mention must be made of Voghera, the capital of Oltrepò.
A visit to Piazza del Duomo is a must, as there is a large market there twice a week (Tuesday and Friday). Likewise, you should visit the church of San Lorenzo Martire (17th century), and maybe take a look at the “Red Church”, dedicated to Saints Ilario and Giorgio, the oldest in the city and the Temple and Sacrarium of the Knights of Italy.
Another monument worth a visit is the Visconti Castle (14th century), which awaits radical restoration works to return it to its old glory; finally, do not miss the Chiesa del Carmine, with its fine renaissance architecture, and the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, rebuilt in 1492, in Gothic - Lombard style.
We also recommend an excursion along the old via Emilia (now State Highway 10), towards Piacenza. After passing through the communes of Torrazza Coste, the home of an important local wine cellar, and Montebello della Battaglia, the site, in 1859, of a battle between Austrian and Piedmont troops during the 3rd war of independence, we reach Torricella Verzate, a small farming town, where it is possible to visit the Holy Stair that rises near the presbytery of the local parish Church, and the 14 small chapels depicting the stations of the cross. Just a few kilometres before reaching Broni, a turn to the right takes you to Cigognola hill, giving another exceptional view over the Po valley. The village is dominated by a castle (13th century) that was extensively extended in the nineteenth century and is now a private home.
Obviously, the range of possible excursions starting from Salice Terme are not limited to the Oltrepò area. The whole of the province of Pavia can easily be visited, with itineraries that can still be kept to within half a day.
The Carthusian Monastery in Pavia certainly takes the place of honour among the many sites worthy of a visit.
This magnificent monument, supreme expression of the Renaissance in Lombardy, is located 8 Km from Pavia, along the state highway to Milan. Founded in 1396 by Gian Galeazzo Visconti, the “Certosa” is without doubt one of the most prestigious treasures in our national artistic heritage, and is a compulsory stopping point for the many tourists from all over the world.
Pavia, laid out along the banks of the river Ticino, where it was founded over two thousand years ago, is the home of one of Italy’s oldest and most prestigious Universities, and can count on a rich historic and artistic heritage.
A visit to the city should begin in the old town centre. An excellent starting point is the Visconti Castle (14th century), the home of the Town Museum, the church of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro (12th century), a beautiful example of local Romanesque architecture, which houses the mortal remains of St. Augustine, Severino Boezio and the Lombard king Liutprando. Along Strada Nuova we come to the Fraschini Town Theatre, built between 1771 and 1773; just beyond, the central University buildings. Still in the University area it is possible to glimpse the three Mediaeval Towers, which were once so numerous that Pavia was nicknamed the “City of a Hundred Towers”. In the same square, overlooked by a modern structure, is the Crypt of San Eusebio (11th century), connected to an ancient Arian cathedral that previously existed (7th century). . Piazza della Vittoria, where you can see: the Broletto (12th/13th century) which was the town hall until 1875, Palazzo de' Diversi (14th century), also known as Domus Rubea, the “Red House”, because of the unmistakable colour of the render on its walls, Santa Maria Gualtieri (11th century), which is no longer in use, but is an interesting example of re-use of a monument, the apse complex in the Cathedral, founded during the second half of the 15th century, with its bell tower (18th century) and cupola (the third largest in Italy) which dates from last century. Piazza del Duomo, dominated by the characteristic facade of the church, which should have been given a coat of polychrome marble, and the remains of the Civic Tower, a Romanesque building that collapsed on March 17th, 1989. In front of the Bishop’s Palace (16th century) there is always great curiosity for the Regisole (1937), an equestrian monument that for years was the symbol and seal of the city. Also worthy of a visit are the churches of Santa Maria del Carmine, a beautiful example of Gothic architecture, and San Teodoro, late-Romanesque, with two interesting frescos of sixteenth century Pavia. The church of San Michele (12th century) stands near the river bank. The Covered Bridge, a replica of the previous fourteenth century bridge, destroyed during the Second World War, leads to the Borgo Ticino quarter, where it is possible to visit the late-Romanesque church of Santa Maria in Betlem, so called because of its position, which was once in a direct line for the Holy Land. Just outside the old town centre, the series of churches worth a visit is completed by those of San Lanfranco and San Lazzaro, both Romanesque.
The area around the provincial capital, known as the Pavese area, is worth a visit. The centres of Belgioioso, Bereguardo and Chignolo Po, which all have castles, are worth seeing.
Another excursion of considerable artistic and cultural interest might be to Lomellina, another section of the province of Pavia, which is well-known for its rice fields, its poplar groves, its irrigated meadows, but above all for its capital: Vigevano, capital of the shoemaking industry and famous for having one of the most beautiful Renaissance squares in the whole of Italy: Piazza Ducale, which is overlooked by the Sforza Castle, the Bramante Tower and the Cathedral of Saint Ambrose. But Lomellina does not just mean Vigevano. You should also visit: Mede, a town with a flourishing community of goldsmiths, Lomello, with the Baptistery of San Giovanni ad Fontes, Sartirana Lomellina , whose castle houses numerous antique fairs. You should also remember the gastronomic traditions of this area : the goose salami from Mortara, the delicious dishes made from frogs in Sartirana, and the offelle, tasty and original biscuits made in Parona.
Texts prepared and edited by Roberto Serra.
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